NewHilux.net

Here is the draws I built a while back.... when the Hilux was all scratch free by the looks wish it was still like that!

They looked good Dave, nice and lightweight. Were they strong enough? and I assume a lot lighter than the commercial set that replaced them?

Alby

They look great Dave

James

Where is the best place to buy the individual bearing rollers from, I would prefer to know some tried and tested ones rather then cheap rubbish ? Has anybody used two runners per drawer to increase the weight carrying capacity or have you found that one runner is enough ? I can't seem to find them on Ovesco.com.au

Andrew

depending where you live Cinan

There is a bearing Industries on seven hills, sydney whis is where I got mine from never had an issue.

the only thing i would replace is the C section on the drawer for Box as the c section tends to bend when the drawer is loaded

I was thinking two rows of bearings and rails might fix a bending problem due to weight. I live in melbourne but preferably looking for an online resource.

Andrew

my problem wasn't the lack of runner it was more the design I used. My runners where what I found lying around the house..



the c channel is what let me down by bending/sagging . If I used a box section it would have works better.


something like this would work alot better for the runners.

the drawer itself is great I've loaded it with up to 60+ kg and not had issue.

Cinan wrote:Where is the best place to buy the individual bearing rollers from, I would prefer to know some tried and tested ones rather then cheap rubbish ? Has anybody used two runners per drawer to increase the weight carrying capacity or have you found that one runner is enough ? I can't seem to find them on Ovesco.com.au

Andrew

Andrew. If you use the Occo runners from Ovesco that I used, you won't need the additional runner as the sample drawers I saw made up at Ovesco could handle 200 kg's on these runners. You physically would not be able to fit that much weight in the drawers. Downside is they are pretty expensive and they take up some room on the outside of the drawers. They are still working perfectly and my drawers have had a real workout. See my "Rod's Rig" buildup thread.

Thanks James

I got my bearings from SKF and they were about $6-8 each (from memory) through a mate who has an account with them.

http://www.skf.com/portal/skf_au/home

My draws in the photos above are still going strong, never had any problems with them. They are actually located in the back of Graham Cahill's GQ shorty these days (4wd action video/photo journalist.) as I had upgraded to a new set of Blackwidow drawers.

Cheers, Dave

Well at $8 each for 14 bearings per drawer v's $20 each for 10 of the Ovesco Occo rollers, the Ovesco solution comes out cheaper. And here was I bemoaning the expense!

Layout of the Ovesco rollers is shown in my "Rod's Rig" buildup.

I can't stress enough that your joinery has to be 100% accurate and all sides must be square and parallel to get home made drawers to work!

Hi Dave, can you recall what size ply you used, did you find it to be adequate?

I made my own set of drawers twice now, Im no tradey so when an older model of outback drawers popped up I grabbed them. Here is a design a guy did that could save u money by just having the single drawer cutting down on drawer slides and or bearing plus its a good layout viewtopic.php?f=8&t=2090&hilit=drawers

Rustyau wrote:Hi Dave, can you recall what size ply you used, did you find it to be adequate?

looks like 11-12mm

Stuck wrote:

Rustyau wrote:Hi Dave, can you recall what size ply you used, did you find it to be adequate?

looks like 11-12mm

Your better off using 16 - 18mm. 18mm is best... Why? got more 'meat' to get a decent 45mm 8 gage screw in there without the ply spliting. pre-drill with a countersink bit through first bit of ply and just 'bed' the bit into joining piece of ply. use an impact driver (rattler) for screws. Will be f#@king strong!

Yeah I agree jakelux, I think mine were about 12mm from memory, but I'd definitely go a 16 or 18mm for sure.

Bring up a old tread.
What is the go for running bearing to n bottom of c channel/box section?

Guys, rather than using draw slides, what about using poly boat slides?

they're cheap and very slim

packeteer wrote:Guys, rather than using draw slides, what about using poly boat slides?

they're cheap and very slim

How are they to slide? Are they heavy to push in n out? I would like to have a test of one I think..

well I know Drifta uses this method, and I have seen a few home builds with the same setup

the only issue I see is if you want to pull the draw all the way out. which is why I reckon you just put an 'inspection' hole above the end of the drawer. that way you dont need to pull it all the way out

Stu.wrf450 wrote:

packeteer wrote:Guys, rather than using draw slides, what about using poly boat slides?

they're cheap and very slim

How are they to slide? Are they heavy to push in n out? I would like to have a test of one I think..

Do normal boat shops carry them? I made the base out malimine and then base of the draw the same and some silicone spray 5 trips in so fare so good fridge slide has 100kg draw runners from eBay so fare so good