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Hi all, after much stuffing around, I've managed to come up with a solution to a first world problem. As we all know, the SR5 has retractable mirrors, but they are manual only. I thought, why not have them automatically retract when you lock the car. So I downloaded the schematics for the electrics in the door and set out to make it happen. As it turns out it works a treat. All parts are available from Jaycar. When you lock the car, the mirrors retract. When you get back in and turn on the ACC/IGN, they come back out. While the ACC/IGN is on, the circuit does not operate which allows you to lock the doors without affecting the mirrors. Hope this helps anyone that might want to have a crack.

Wiring Schematic


The control box


The connectors behind driver's kick panel


Video link to the operation https://www.dropbox.com/s/zptmpk9v74ikx ... 6.mp4?dl=0

Great post. I had the same idea but not enough smarts to do it. Kudos AKB

Hey Adam, you just saved me from a headache trying to work it out, much appreciated. One question though, does the manual switch still work once you are on the move, in the case when you are travelling in the bush and you want to fold them in manually?

Do you have any solutions on how to make the power windows work when the ignition is off?

Manual switch still operates as normal. Power window mod might be difficult due to them being CAN controlled.

What are the Jaycar part numbers for the relays?

Parts from Jaycar I used are;
12v relay SY4059
12v latching relay SY4060
Case HB6065
Fuse holder SZ2046
Cable WH3025
Circuit board HP9540

Hope this helps,

Adam.

Hey Adam.

Since you have the schematics, are you able to figure out if there is an easy way to get power to the front passenger window whenever the car is on, just like the driver window.

When I disable the windows in the back, it also disables the front passenger window. Not conducive to a happy marriage

Sure does help, thank you!

adamkberger wrote:Parts from Jaycar I used are;
12v relay SY4059
12v latching relay SY4060
Case HB6065
Fuse holder SZ2046
Cable WH3025
Circuit board HP9540

Hope this helps,

Adam.

nicovdw wrote:Hey Adam.

Since you have the schematics, are you able to figure out if there is an easy way to get power to the front passenger window whenever the car is on, just like the driver window.

When I disable the windows in the back, it also disables the front passenger window. Not conducive to a happy marriage

No there is no easy way. From my understanding of the power window schematics, here is what's happening. The driver's door master switch and every door window motor has an inbuilt ECU which are all linked together to the body ECU via a local CANbus. All these ECUs have constant power. The body ECU also has a switched supply controlled by the Stop/Start ECU. An educated guess suggests that when the body ECU receives a supply signal, it broadcasts a packet of data to the driver's door master switch ECU to activate it. This in turn broadcasts an enable/disable packet to the other doors depending on the position of the window lock button. You would need to block the disable packets to allow the passenger window to continue to operate or reprogramme its ECU to ignore these packets. If you did this, the window would remain active even with the vehicle off.

Once again this is an educated guess. If anyone knows more on the topic feel free to chime in.

Adam.

Whereabouts did you download all these schematics from?

Schematics are available from https://toyotamanuals.com.au/. You'll have to pay for access, which is $16.50 for 24hrs or $66 for 7 days.

I've just about finished wiring up the relays and wanted to have a look at the harness inside the driver kick panel. In the schematic you've got a Violet wire coming out of what looks like Pin16, however, on the car it is Green (you can even see in your third picture).

The Voilet wire is actually coming out of Pin6. So is it Pin16 or Pin6? I'm thinking it doesn't matter, because reading your schematic (and it's been years since I did Year 10 electronics) the purpose of this is energise the second relay so locking the doors when ACC is on has no effect on the mirrors.

Edit: Actually, it does matter, needs to be for the mirror control.

I went and double checked and the schematic is correct. Just remember, the socket is pictured from the front. Here's a close up for you.

Thanks for that.

I can clearly see the Violet wire there now (Mirror 12v ACC). 2 pin-outs above it is the Black/White wire for the Mirror Ground. The 2 larger pin-outs at the bottom of the socket are the door lock motors.

I think I was confused because looking at your schematic the Black ground wire is on the same row as Violet wire. Or to put it another way, it's on the row of pin-outs furthest from the locking tab on the harness. It's actually on the row of pin-outs closest to the locking tab of the harness.

Thanks again and really appreciate it. I'll wire it all up in the car if I get home before dark tomorrow

You're right, I have the door lock motor wires reversed on the schematic. White should be pin 20 and black should be pin 10. I'll correct it when I can.

Hi all, I'm a new member so apologies for digging up an old thread, but this is exactly what my SR5 needs - thank you Adam for the design! Did anyone happen to take a photo of the case with all the relay and fuse components set out, I have the parts and tools but not the experience to put this together, so a clear picture of the layout to copy would be greatly appreciated. Many thanks!

Great piece of kit. About to put it together now.
Do we need certain lugs for the harness?
Thanks !

Just to clarifiy and not to steal any of adamkberger's thunder, the correct wiring schematic looks like this

https://www.dropbox.com/s/vp8weqrv6hl9h ... r.png?dl=0

dandin wrote:Just to clarifiy and not to steal any of adamkberger's thunder, the correct wiring schematic looks like this

https://www.dropbox.com/s/vp8weqrv6hl9h ... r.png?dl=0

Thanks for that. Off to jaycar now.
Did you need any special lugs for the harness? Do they make a piggy back hardness for these? So we dont have to cut wires?

you can now get a simple piggy back harness to do this with a small solid state module on ebay.
really easy to fit. Good for people that dont feel comfortable making up a harness.
fitted in 30 min.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/192035173000 ... EBIDX%3AIT