NewHilux.net

I bought my tray from Arb and fits an n70 battery. I was advised against getting an agm battery though, Arb reckon they don't perform well being next to Diesel engines so I got the century 4wd hybrid which can be used to crank and deep cycle.

Yeah most agm manufacturers wont honor warranty if the battery is in the engine bay.

Sent from my SM-N920I using Tapatalk

I made a bracket that places the Redarc at the front of the car as when i was talking to the red arc dealer he stated that to get the best performance out of the system they need constant air flow to remain as cool as possible.

I have a ctek charger and am thinking about mounting it under the dash on the passenger side somewhere to keep it out of the heat. Should still be less than 1m of cable back to the Aux battery.
Is there any issues I'm not thinking of in doing it this way apart from getting a few large cables through the firewall?

Hi All,

This is the setup I have done in my SR Dual Cab.

Reasons for;
- allows greater capacity (currently 120AH). Could hold double this with another cradle on other side
- safer for agm
- flexibility of battery type and sizing
- free up space in engine bay for catch can or other purpose
- easy to check battery level from BCDC indicator lights (kneel down on side of tray to see)
- cheaper!! The battery tray I quickly welded up should cost $5-10 in steel
- it is safely positioned out of harms way and is in a cool environment. Even with full suspension compression - battery tray is 300-350mm from any lines/diff etc.

The setup
- Full river AGM 120AH
- ARB dual battery kit
- RedArc BCDC 25amp
- currently 2 Anderson outlets (one fused for 20 amp, one for 50amp (compressor use).
Can easily add more. You can see I have folded up a bracket for the andersons. Similar also to the bracket I have for UHF aerial.

Cheers,

Nick




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

austeve wrote:Cheers for the responses, im about to do my sr5 but just another question.
The redarc charger supplied (BCDC1220) doesnt seem to have an option for ignition shutoff unless its in 24V mode. As in it will continue charging from your starter until voltage drops below 12.7V unloaded. Does this worry you?

Did you have the option of using the BCDC1220-IGN which charges only when ignition is on? Or did Toyota reccomend using the charger in 24V mode? I.e. is the source select from the charger (blue) connected to starter battery or to ignition?

Thanks

I'll ask what I'm sure is a dumb question to everyone commenting here. I want to install a twin battery system, and whilst I ticked a few boxes when I bought the car, I gathered from a quick look at forums there may be better options than the factory unit (battery size) I'm the first to admit I know absolutely nothing about modern electrics on cars (or old ones for that matter) However, I have the oem winch and intend doing a few trips with a fridge etc. My main question, and the dumb part! Above mentions using a charger in 24v mode. I'm considering going from my old faithful light forces to the fyrlyt 9000's, which are 24v. Does this mean I could run the fyrlyt's directly from this 24v? I went to buy the fyrlyt's and had them in my hand (very nice), and the chap who sells them said they wouldn't be as bright as they would be on a "true" 24v system such as trucks run. He claimed about the same output as a good HID system when using the 12 to 24v transformers. He didn't try sell me an option in HID, so I guess he was just being honest? If (if) I can get a true 24v feed from a dual battery system, I'd be more inclined to spend more on a you beaut setup as I'd get the true 24v power and not have to run the fyrlyt step-ups (extra $350 and not that great? Not intending or wanting to throw the thread into a debate on fyrlyt VS Lightforce, just looking to learn something about the dual systems due to my lack of understanding. We do a number of trips a year from WA over to Lincoln in SA, the wildlife can be anywhere between zero or swarms, so I want to get my lights right. Cheers

You blokes listen too much to your ARB representatives!

Here's and exceptional AGM deep cycle (arguably better discharge ratings to a traditional single function AGM), BUT its also recommended as a dual purpose battery - warranted, designed and approved for under bonnet use.
sitting right next to my big arse heat pumpin diesel engine.

http://img.en25.com/Web/MPowerAustralia ... e_2012.pdf

https://www.mpower.com.au/products/batt ... van-marine

Just wondering a specific spot people are finding a safe ignition feed for the dc charger. Cheers bh1

I use a piggyback fuse. In the fuse panel behind the glove box I use the power window 25amp one. Did one on wed, wish I'd taken a pic now.

Sent from my SM-N920I using Tapatalk

Cheers mate thanks

Ok so the toyota kit is good but needs the bigger tray to run an n70? So is it just easier to buy it after market. I was quoted $1000 plus a battey and was told an n70 will fit. Sounds like this may be wrong

Went to ARB distributor today and brought a BCDC 1225 LV. Is the wrong unit ?? should I not have brought the Low Voltage model ??

I just bought the regular BCDC1225 for mine - I was told the new hilux alternator isn't variable voltage.

James.d wrote:Went to ARB distributor today and brought a BCDC 1225 LV. Is the wrong unit ?? should I not have brought the Low Voltage model ??

The LV will work on anything.

TOYZX wrote:I use a piggyback fuse. In the fuse panel behind the glove box I use the power window 25amp one. Did one on wed, wish I'd taken a pic now.

Sent from my SM-N920I using Tapatalk

Hey mate were is this power window fuse you speak of? Can't find it for the life of me.

If you stick your head under the glove box you'll see the white cover for the fuse panel. I make a hole in the cover for one of these to plug in.

Sent from my SM-N920I using Tapatalk

Yeah I got me one of those piggy back things. Was just looking where to plug it in.. Was looking for something that resembled power window, like PWRW but I'm guessing it's not marked like that in there. I'll have another look tommorow. I packed up in frustration tonight haha. And the fuse I pulled out didn't look like that :/

Power window fuse is not an ignition wire. It's on all the time.

Tacko88 wrote:Yeah I got me one of those piggy back things. Was just looking where to plug it in.. Was looking for something that resembled power window, like PWRW but I'm guessing it's not marked like that in there. I'll have another look tommorow. I packed up in frustration tonight haha. And the fuse I pulled out didn't look like that :/

Hi I did a post on this before This is much easier rather than standing on your head to access the fuse box under the white cover underneath glove box-some caution there it has some computer control fuses in it also.

Take out the glove box lid now go to the left hand side of the glove box there is a small general fuse box with a black cover on it with amp designations written on the front, take the cover off (this applies to a manual transmission SR5 but I think the auto may also be the same) there are a lot of dead & unused slots in it. Look right down the bottom of box there are two slots unused with a live pin only on one side Insert a piggy back fuse & lead into one of these they are only live with ignition ON. May be also put a cable tie ontop of the piggyback to keep it in because it only has one socket to feed from then cable tie the cover back on so you know what fuse is what. CHEERS

Can someone please take a pic of an ignition wire or fuse socket for me to tape into ? I have and Auto SR5

Thanks in advance