10 luxxxx wrote:I have thought about this myself and have decided rather than risk something going wrong in a big way I will have a small led light that tells me the power to the rear of the truck is still working.
Alby wrote:I have the resettable 12v breakers from Jaycar, saves mucking around with or running out of fuses
Edit: link to the type I used in 30 amp, they look like they have some better ones now
http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=SF2266
10 luxxxx wrote:I use the jaycar one aswell it is a duel breaker 50 amps and have had no problems at all
2007Lux wrote:I have a Redarc BCDC1220 with a 30A auto reset breaker on the output wire (to the aux battery). I intend to replace the input fuse with an auto resetablel one also. The autosparky I deal with suggested it after I told him about my 1220 output fuse blowing on a trip last year. I'm no expert but it works fine thus far. I have also been wondering about the issue of a permanent short and what would happen to the auto reset breaker. Maybe I should get an old car battery from work rig up a circuit through a breaker, short it, sit back and see what happens?? Oh lastly I put a 40A resetable breaker on the wire which runs to the tub, I guess an auto reset could also be used here??
outbackjoe wrote:What's the attraction to auto reset? Not having to flick a switch? It's not a good arrangement to continue to reset onto a fault. Actually you should physically check / inspect before resetting any breaker. If the breaker is clearing a large current it will eventually fail to clear it if you repeatedly reset onto the fault.
Fuses clear a fault faster than circuit breakers but correctly specified circuit breakers will operate fast enough to protect cables and avoid fire. The circuit breaker needs to be able to interrupt the current from a dead short which may be a couple of thousand amps on a shorted lead acid battery with big cables. Generally don't use AC circuit breakers for DC unless the datasheet specifies a sufficient DC breaking capacity. AC breakers rely on the zero volt crossing of the AC waveform to quench the arc and break the current.
bluehilux wrote:Funnily enough I just spoke to the field service manager for a very large mining auto electrical mob in Mackay, and he said the auto resets were fine and that he'd never seen one melt ever. Mind you he did mention that they come in varying qualities and he'd be wary of the ebay ones.
He said he had everything there from OEM Cat breakers to basic fuses and that if I came down he'd help me out with it (I did something for him recently).
Personally, I think those maxi blade fuses look fine but I just can't find a suitable holder. I won't use those inline holders with a wire out of each end, I need surface mount.
Mate, I read your blog extensively about this.
What breakers/fuses are you using?
And thanks all for your replies as well.
2007Lux wrote:I only use the autoreset for the BCDC output wire. The line that feeds my tub has a 40amp manual breaker on it very close to the battery, plus the two cigarette sockets in the tub have 10A manual resetable breakers on them. I also have an anderson plug for my fridge in the tub, but if the fridge shorts internally that has it's own fuse. So the way I see it the use of an auto resetable breaker in my case is to stop a load spike blowing my BCDC output fuse and thus defrosting my fridge. The chances of getting a permanent short in the small cable runs charging the aux battery under my bonnet would be IMO very low.
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